2011 Ford Escape red light stays on during programming - SOLVED

Question

Vehicle: 2011 Ford Escape

Evo All #001A07260304 installed with T-harness THAR-FORD4; plug-n-play install, teed connections to ignition switch, immobilizer antenna and OBDII connector; no wires spliced

Can't get the unit to program.  Process: Hold program button, plug in data cable and release on red light.  Insert key and turn on until theft light turns out.  Remove first key and insert second.  Turn on for 3 seconds, theft light goes out, turn off and remove.  Last step says to press and release programming button within 5 seconds (this is where it gets stuck).  Red light should flash 10 times and blue light should flash 10 times and ignition comes on and turns off again.  When I press the button the last time, the red light blinks and just stays on.

I've tried the firmware downgrade listed in https://fortin.ca/en/qa/92073/faq-red-led-stuck-on .  That link says to downgrade to v 0.99 but the lowest version for Ford appears to be 4.01.  I flashed 4.01, power cycled in vehicle, reflashed v 71.52, unlocked settings and reset the unit.  Still same results.

I've also tried testing the data bus.  Hold button, insert data link connector, release button on blue light.  Connected all other connections and turned key on.  Blue light stays solid.  Shouldn't it flash on data?

The yellow wire is not connected as it seems to be part of the T harness, but I've tested it for 12v on ignition and it is getting it.  I don't have the valet switch or hood pin switch connected.  What am I missing?  I'm wearing out the plugs with all these connections/disconnections.

 

 

 

Answer 1

Did you connect the yellow wire from the 20 pin connector of the evo?

Page 5: https://fortin.ca/download/95081/evo-all_ig_rts_bi_for-escape-2008-2010_key40bits_a_95081.pdf

Comments

I haven't connected it to ignition.  I have measured the wire disconnected and it is showing battery voltage when switched on.   I've powered the wire through a power probe when I turn the ignition on but get the same result.  The wiring diagram doesn't state a specific place in the vehicle to pick up the ignition voltage.  Is just any switched ignition wire sufficient?  Are there amperage concerns on this wire?  It doesn't look like very large gauge wire.

 

Ran a wire directly to ignition switch for yellow wire and verified power on it when ignition switched on.   Still getting the same result, red light stays on....

 

Okay, after looking over the wire harnesses and diagram, I realized there are TWO yellow wires.  One is from the harness and is marked "IGNITION" and the other is the A1 pin of the 20 pin connector.  The one marked ignition was the one I was feeding 12v but it is SUPPLYING 12v.  Connect that supply wire to the other one in the 20 pin connector and it works fine now.

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ryk,

I'm glad you came back and posted the final solution!

Same vehicle, module, & harness and same apparent symptoms.  Connecting the two yellow wires together solved that issue.

For anyone else stumbling into this thread with a 2008-2012 Escape/Mariner, also be sure to turn options A5, A11, & C1 to ON in order to enable the remote start in its rudimentary configuration.

FWIW, for all the details provided in the installation sheet (95081) the instructions could be improved by including a specific callout to the detail of the yellow wire.

Cheers!

Steve