dodge charger 2014 step 5 blue/red lights not flashing using thar-chr6

Question

Followed instructions in guide #97711 on a dodge charger 2014 automatic.  Updated module using flashlink.  Have A10 and A20 wires attached to same wires coming from harness, no other wiring.  In step 5 where it specifies to push the button 1x to turn off the blue led and then it states that the blue led and the red led will flash.  This never happens.

Answer 1

What is the S/N to the module?

Comments

I have also just now installed the obd splices and the parking light.  Upon doing so when I do step 5 the blue LED turns off and the car starts going weird and a system message pops up on the dash saying "NO BUS" then the air conditioner turns on and the windshield wipers start going.  Still no blue/red flashing and waiting about 5 mins of this the car then says it needs service and nothing else happens. S/N is 001A06883382

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Also just tried unplugging the parking light splice, the C2 and C1 connections leaving only the C3 and C4 as I have seen suggested in numerous posts.  When I do this the popup display flashes a lot, says the "NO BUS" message quickly and then strangely it says to press the clutch pedal and brake, then repeats and after about 5 mins of this I decided to press the stop button and unplug the module as it seems it would be an endless loop.

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What t-harness are you installing? The chrt6 or chrt7?

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I mentioned it in my very first post....

thar-chr6

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The messages displayed on the display also cycle through each of the system's components saying "Service AWD", "Service Keyless..", etc.  When I remove the CAN connections and push the PTS button these messages go away and the check engine light is now on.  Also it reverts back to recognizing it as an automatic transmission it seems as the clutch message also goes away back to the push brake pedal to start.

 

Would it be possible to get faster technical support on this instead of 24 hours between each answer?  My vehicle is now blocking because it is going on 2 days of this.  Thanks

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Also on wirecolor.com the wires it has listed for this the can high and can low the colors do not exist on the harness it is claiming, specifically it states for can high a white/black on the obd2 (not there) and the can low white/light blue also not on the obd2.  The instructions in the setup guide 97711 do have the correct colors for everything shown.  Upon attempting to go through the troubleshooting section there is not a reference for a dodge charger 2014 the closest and only guide shown goes up to 2013.

I have checked the connections and double checked, none appear to have anything odd.  The splices are using T-spade.

Is there any specific troubleshooting I can do at this point since I have answered the questions about which products I have?

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Also noticed that the CEL is now on after starting, the alarm system does not seem to work as locking it no longer produces the horn beep, the radio screen does not light up and pushing power does not turn it on.  So decided to try a different firmware version, the latest 74.xx series to see if things would work, same exact result including the above before trying this firmware version.  Also checked all the wiring, removed the CAN plug and the parking light plug still the same result.  Wiggled wires just to see if anything different would happen and nothing same result.  Will be attaching pictures showing how wires are spliced and where.

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Everything as it is connected.

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A18 Connection

 

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A10 and A20 connections

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C2 and C1

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C3 and C4

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Spoke with client on the phone.

 

T-Taps are probably the cause of the no programming issue. After testing found can wire with no voltage.

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Ok as he mentioned the taps, specifically the gray one was not good.  Use a multimeter to check these if you have the same issue as it is vital for communication.

 

Only issue now is that remote I used to do dcryptor no longer works no matter which buttons I push.  I have read other comments saying this happens but, found no mention in the install guide.  Please advise.

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While I was on the phone with another support rep, the 2nd remote I used to test the install now does not work.  The 2nd support rep I spoke to claimed the battery was incorrectly removed on the 1st remote causing it to fail.  So how did this 2nd one fail?  I have disconnected the battery to see if that clears things up as the 2nd support rep seemed to suggest.

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Ya that isn't normal, the oem remote should always function.

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Ok triple checked all connections, mounted ODB connector back in place and reconnected battery.  Have only hooked up the module with the harness connection and the 20 pin connector, have not hooked up the data link and the odb connections.  Both the 1st remote and 2nd remote are working, can start car, can lock/unlock as though nothing happened.  There are some permanent codes on the ODB status that my reader cannot remove as it says that they are permanent, I think not a big deal because this is most likely from the bad wiring I initially did.  So at this point since I did a master reset and no longer have the dcryptor I will continue at that point.  Again only thing I need to do is hook up the odb connector and the data link one that requires me to hold until I get to blue led.  Will report back with results.

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Ok everything is working, ended up doing dcryptor a 3rd time because laptop went in to sleep mode.  Tested multiple times the starting, locking/unlocking of the car and each was successful.  Mounted evo-all securely made sure no wires were/are loose.  Double checked functions after putting dash back together and everything still works fine.  Both remotes appear to be currently working without issue after disconnecting the battery for about 2 hours.  Thank you Derek!

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Glad you got it sorted matt.

 

Best reagrds.